Tibet is one of those last mysterious nations. Much disputed and surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the world’s highest mountains, it is the most isolated and starkly beautiful place that I have been lucky enough to visit. I’d like to think that I am reasonably well –travelled, particularly in Asia, but the rest of the world too and it is one of those places that it is really quite difficult to top. The Chinese presence, especially in the capital Lhasa, is getting more and more intense but when you get to the heart of it, the unique atmosphere, location and friendliness of the people makes all of the tumult fade into the background.
Lhasa from the roof of the Jokhang Temple
I arrived in Lhasa by plane, took a day to acclimatise and then went to explore. The first glimpse of the Potala Palace – winter seat of the Dalai Lama – was magical, whilst the gardens of the Norbulingka showed a more relaxed side of his Holiness. The big university monasteries on the outskirts of the city are still recovering from a troubled past, yet they buzzed with an energy and devotion that I’d never previously experienced. My favourite part of Lhasa though, was the Barkhor and Jokhang Temple, a place that really did seem to be magical. The Jokhang is Tibetan Buddhism’s most sacred temple. People come on pilgrimage here from all over the country – not an easy journey at the best of times but when you are prostrating yourself the whole way? This must be a special place! Have a look at this video to see what I mean. The Barkhor is the Jokhang’s ‘kora’ or pilgrimage circuit. Merit is gained by encircling it and spinning the prayer wheels which send the prayers directly up to heaven. Some enterprising Buddhist even invented a handheld prayer wheel that can be spun as you walk; wonderfully convenient but it makes for a bit of an obstacle course for interested observers. This is the place that brings the whole of Tibet together. A short stroll on the Barkhor and you’ll see people from all over the country, many in the traditional dress of their people, all united in the Buddhist faith. This is no more strongly felt than inside the Jokhang: a dark, sooty, yak-butter-candle-smelly build with a tangible atmosphere. Shuffling along in a huge queue of people who are prostrating before statues, making offerings and lighting candles is not much short of a divine experience. This place is the beating heart and laid bare soul of a nation, which it is an absolute honour to see.
The Barkhor by night
Away from the buzz of Lhasa you’ll find jaw-dropping scenery – there is no need to worry about your pictures, the subject does all of the work! One of my favourite things was at the pinnacle of the high mountain passes, we would stop and wander among the little stone alters built by the people who had passed through, and the huge conglomerations of colourful prayer flags. I was so taken by these that I brought some home for my garden – each flag has a depiction of a winged horse and when the wind blows and the flags ripple, the winged horse would take off and fly the prayers to heaven. A beautifully evocative idea.
There is no escaping two things about Tibet: monasteries and mountains. On the subject of monasteries – of which there are many – each, no matter how old, has a beautifully tranquil atmosphere. We were lucky enough to stay in one and experience a morning prayer session with the huge, long trumpets that have a sound that is surprisingly soothing. Call me naïve but I was also very surprised to see monks on mobile phones and riding scooters! Tibet may be considered old world but it is very much in the 21st Century!
Mount Everest approaching base camp
And then there are the mountains. The Himalayas – a name that needs little introduction. I have stood at the foot of Everest and really did feel tiny. The views from all over the country are breathtaking (and it isn’t just the altitude!), peaks appearing and fading away as if a reflection of mood, as you traverse the plateau, peeking out from behind lower pretenders, or standing brazenly in the distance beyond a green plain. I wasn’t able to get to Mount Kailash on this trip, but it is somewhere I’d certainly like to return to, as an incredible place of pilgrimage for several faiths, and for some – the centre of the universe.
So would I go back to Tibet? Yes. Would I recommend other people visit Tibet? YES and I already have many, many times. It may be a little difficult, you may have heard tales that put you off, but it is one of the most indescribably incredible places on this earth, and will call out to the adventurer in all of us.
We have plenty more information about Tibet here. If you feel that you’d prefer to visit Tibet on a group tour, visit Wendy Wu Tours for a wealth of options.